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Back in action

Posted by Casson on Sep 10, 2009 in News and Announcements
It's getting hot in here

It's getting hot in here

I’m back from a much-needed vacation and ready to get cracking.

As you are likely aware, the oceans are continuing to heat up (both literally and figuratively, unfortunately.)  we’re seeing an ever-increasing number of articles in the mainstream press about overfishing, piracy, fishery collapses, acidification, trade disputes, and more.

I’ve got several pending articles on my plate but I do want to float a suggestion so we can better get at the issues that are of the biggest concern to you, the sustainablesushi.net readership.

One of the ideas that I received a couple of weeks ago was to allow readers to ask direct questions that would then be used to formulate articles.  I think this is a great idea, as I do have a tendency to get a bit off-topic and this would serve to keep my pen reigned in a bit and to ensure that the entries I’m writing are indeed of interest to folks that visit this site.

Have you heard the news?

Have you heard the news?

So, let me ask — what’s on your mind?  Concerned about the bluefin tuna hullabaloo going on in Europe?  How about the New York Times front page article on hoki?  Maybe your interest is piqued by all the new money the Canadian government is pouring into aquaculture?  Is it the ongoing crisis within the Chilean salmon farming industry (they brought it on themselves) that’s got your attention?  Or maybe something else entirely?

Please either post your questions and topics of interest here or send them to info@sustainablesushi.net, and I’ll take it from there.  Looking forward to hearing from you!

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Update: Freshwater Eel / Unagi (CONTEST)

Please stop eating unagi.

An adult European eel, Anguilla anguilla.

A recent article in the Guardian, a prestigious UK newspaper that has an entire department devoted to environmental issues, has reported that eel populations across the European continent have dropped by 95% in the past 25 years.  Sadly, this isn’t really that surprising.

Steven Morris, the article’s author, writes that “a ban on exporting eels out of Europe - they are a popular dish in the far east - is proposed, along with a plan to severely limit the fishing season and the number of people who will be allowed licences [sic -- heh].”  Unfortunately, that is the extent to which the article discusses the connection of the eel’s dire situation to the sushi world.

Eels in captivity.  Chances are exceptionally good that they were captured from a dying European or American population.

The unagi industry is based primarily in China and relies on glass eels (babies) caught in the wild rather than hatching animals within the farms.

There’s not a whole lot I can add to my current entry on unagi.  It already ends with “Don’t eat it.”  I guess this isn’t so much of an update as it is me beating the same old drum.

I don’t mean to be preachy, but this animal is in serious trouble.  We need to give it a break.  There are other options.  Honestly, drench just about any fatty, sustainable whitefish (I suggest Alaskan or Canadian black cod) in kabeyaki sauce, broil it or sear it with a blowtorch, and serve it with sesame seeds over rice: it’s gonna taste a whole lot like unagi.

Listen, I’m not trying to be obnoxious about this.  I just am particularly passionate about this issue.  The eel is an incredible creature, and we know so little about it.  All freshwater eels from both sides of the North Atlantic swim all the way to one small tract of ocean — the Sargasso Sea — to spawn.  For the longest time, we actually thought they simply incarnated from mud and weeds in rivers because we had never seen breeding eels. There’s still so much we can learn about this animal.

Your entry will be prepared in this fashion.

Let me put something out there, as added incentive.  How about this — everyone who reads this post, please comment on it with your alternative to eel.  It could be anything you want (but black cod, aka sablefish, has already been taken, so that doesn’t count; and no unsustainable items — that goes without saying.)  I’ll wait ten days from posting.  On the eleventh day (May 15th), I’ll take all the suggestions to Chef Kin Lui at Tataki Sushi Bar.  He will look at the list of suggestions, try them out as kabeyaki-style dishes, and choose a favorite.  I’ll post a picture of the winning dish.  Whoever wins will receive a free dinner for two at Tataki Sushi Bar in San Francisco, as well as a signed copy of my book.

Good luck!

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Understanding the rankings: Aquaculture

Posted by Casson on Dec 26, 2008 in Fishing and Farming, Science and Rankings

Aquaculture (a.k.a. fish farming) involves fish or shellfish that is taken from cultured populations rather than form the wild.  Sustainable Sushi uses the methods developed by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program to appraise these operations.

The methodology is based on the analysis of five criteria:

1) Use of marine resources: What kind of drain is the farm on our natural resources?  Many fish farms use wild fish as food for their farmed product.  How many pounds of fish go into the farm to get one pound of salable fish out?  Is the food fish drawn from sustainable sources?  Are endangered species being used as food?

2) Risk of escaped fish to wild stocks: Fish farms are always going to have some level of escapes.  What is the likelihood that this could be a problem?  Does the same species already exist in the waters around the farm? Could the fish thrive in the local area, and establish a population?  Is there the potential for cross-breeding?

3) Risk of disease and parasite transfer to wild stocks: Is the farm acting as a disease or parasite incubator?  Could these pathogens and parasites potentially transfer to local wild populations?  How is the farm controlling the potential disease problems?

4) Risk of pollution and habitat effects: Many fish farms discharge effluent into the natural environmental around them.  Is this being mitigated at all?  What are the chemicals and particulates that are being discharged?  Is they having a deleterious effect on the local environment?  How is the farm effecting the environment as a whole?

5) Management effectiveness: Some farms are very well-managed, while others are slipshod operations that pose a severe threat to environment. This criterion examines the strength of the management protocols under which the farms are operating and evaluates the effectiveness of their precautionary measures.

These five criteria are appraised and averaged to generate an overall ranking.

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